Petals at Her Feet

As I wandered out this morning I wasn't expecting to run into a sea of flowers. Today is the 2nd of February, the official day of Virgin de la Candelaria. So yesterday was all about folklore, traditional costumes, dance and music, today is all about the little lady.

Yesterday evening Candelaria was moved by prosession from her own church to the main cathedral. The procession of musicians, town dignitaries and other god-fearing church folk slowly meandered the 500 meters from Candelarias church to the Cathedral. En route Candelaria stopped every now and then to have rose petals thrown on her from the balconies and upper windows. The little lady seems partial to flowers.

In the square outside the cathedral, a colourful crowd gathered today under sunshades to listen to outdoor mass and a kiddy choir perform. And guest of honour was none other than the president of Peru (greeted by the locals with cat calls and buu-shouts) along with the minister for culture of Peru, who gave flaming speeches about the development of Peru, the forming of a hospital in Puno and generally blew a lot of hot air. Candelaria smirked in pride of place on her podium in front of the cathedral.

But what I didn't expect was that the streets on the side of the square were being covered with festive images made of flower petals, dyed sawdust, and even on one occasion where faith was stronger than finance, with wetted and dyed toilet paper.

I haven't quite managed to work out, what the images are all about. The white dove of peace is certainly featured in several stands, as were the names of Candelaria herself as well as the names of several more popular saints (San Martin de Porro, the black saint foremost among them), but so is Tweety the cartoon bird and other slightly less religious motifs. I have yet to see the commercial for any major brand though praise be.

After the talking and singing was over, Candelaria went for a little walk - carried by about 24 men, her podium creaked and swung up on high. And what did the little lady do? Trampled on all those lovely images, which had only moments before been completed!

After Candelaria, her pole bearers, the ministers, a cardinal, about 20 incense swinging vestal virgins and a platoon of police had ceremoniously walked past a crew of sweepers followed, sweeping away what was left of the work of many hot and cramped hours.

This stay in Puno and the coincidence of my passing through exactly during Candelaria will probably remain one of the undisputed highlights of this trip,whatever else there may yet be in store. 

Tomorrow it's Copacabana. The Bolivian one. Some travellers claim that internet connections can be distinctly spotty at times in Bolivia. So let's see how your travel correspondent gets online. Hasta luego chicos!