Tip & Top in Madeira

Since the dawn of man, the tips and tops of natural formations have had a strange appeal for us roving types. Or at least I presume the need to conquer mounds of earth is a primal urge that we humans have been cultivating for yonks. 

As very little of the surface area of Madeira is flat, there are lots of peaks to conquer and most walks end up being something of a cardiovascular training triumph.

Just as the need to walk to the top of a big mounds of earth is ingrained in all of us, so is the need to go to the furthest tips of bits of land sticking out to sea (aka peninsulas). I’ve indulged in both these urges on this trip.

The Easternmost point of Madeira is the Punta de São Lourenço peninsula - with the lighthouse island Ilhéu do Farol at its tip.

The walk there is through rugged wind swept hills with tall cliffs that plunge into the surprisingly turqoise sea. And if I’m waxing lyrical about it, just look at it now!

And all the mod coms are provided for: at the end of the hike, there is the this elegant trailer-crapper at your disposal for the modest sum of one euro.

Having seen the furthest point, I naturally headed for the highest one next: Pico Ruivo, 1862 meters from sea level.

The beginning of the 5 hour trail from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo offered some jawdropping views of gobsmackingly pictoresque mountains with blue skies. 

Winding occasionally on narrow ridges between the peaks

And occasionally on even narrower paths, hacked into vertical cliffsides.  

Most of the trail seemed to be stairs going up and down and up and down - until the final ascent to the tallest peak. 

As the morning wore on, clouds started gathering 

and the grande finale - the view from the top of Pico Ruivo - was clouds. Occasionally tantalizing glimpses of neighbouring peaks broke free from the cloud cover - to dissappear moments later eerily back into the milky white.

It felt like a fair hike, but I managed not to sink too far into self congratulatory mode, since the day of the hike was Madeira Island Ultra Trail -  an extreme running event, where the contestants run  60, 85 or 150 km - and the Pico Ruivo to Pico do Areiro trail was part of the track. The runners, many of whom had been running for 12 hours straight by the time we saw them, were going in the opposite direction from us on the trail. 

Occasionally there would be shouts of ”runner, runner” and everyone would have to flatten against cliff surfaces or daringly balance right on the edge of the narrow track to let the contestants pass unhindered.

I may be three kinds of crazy, but you won’t catch me competing in that race. Ever.